Built for your horsepower, not a catalog
A driveshaft from a parts store is built for a stock car. Once you add power, sticky tires, a manual transmission or a trans brake, the factory shaft becomes the weak link. We build each performance driveshaft for your specific combination: length, u-joint series, tube material, diameter and wall thickness.
Performance driveshaft lines
- Street rod & muscle car: smooth, quiet steel or aluminum shafts for cruisers and classic builds.
- Heavy duty street / strip: thicker tubing and stronger joints for serious street cars that see the track.
- 1350 series race / nitrous: large-cap 1350 u-joints and heavy-wall tubing for high-horsepower, nitrous and boosted drag cars.
- Aluminum and chromoly: aluminum for lighter rotating mass and a higher critical speed, chromoly for maximum strength. Compare materials →
U-joint series we build
Custom and performance driveshafts are available in 1310, 1330, GM 3R, 7260, 7290, 1350, 1410, 1480 and 1550 series.
Series at a glance
| Series | Typical use |
|---|---|
| 1310 | Stock and mild street cars and light trucks |
| 1330 | Same cap size as 1310 with a wider span; common on factory performance cars and trucks |
| 1350 | Larger caps and a wider span. The go-to upgrade for high horsepower, drag racing and heavy towing |
| 1410 | Heavy-duty trucks and extreme applications |
| GM 3R | GM-specific series found on many GM trucks |
| 7260 / 7290 | Chrysler / Dodge series |
| 1480 / 1550 | Larger series for extreme torque and heavy use |
Not sure which you have or need? We can mix series with conversion u-joints, or build a shaft with a different series at each end.
Common combinations we build for
Makes: Chevrolet, GMC, Ford, Dodge / Mopar, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Buick, Cadillac, Lincoln, Jeep and more.
Transmissions: TH350, TH400, Powerglide, 4L60E, 4L80E, 6L80, 10R80, C4, C6, AOD, 4R70W, 727 TorqueFlite, T56, TR6060, Tremec TKX and others.
Rear ends: GM 10-bolt and 12-bolt, Ford 8.8 and 9-inch, Dana 60, Mopar 8 3/4 and more.
Engine swaps: LS, LT and Coyote swaps almost always change driveshaft length and yokes. Send us your combination and we'll build a shaft to match.
Built, balanced, ready to bolt in
Every performance shaft is welded, balanced and inspected before it leaves our Edmond shop. Pick it up locally or we'll ship it.
Frequently asked questions
When should I upgrade to a 1350 series driveshaft?
Consider 1350 if you're making high horsepower, running nitrous or boost, launching hard with slicks or a trans brake, or breaking 1310 or 1330 u-joints. The bigger caps and wider span handle much more torque.
Will a lighter driveshaft make my car faster?
A lighter aluminum shaft reduces rotating mass, which helps the engine rev a little more freely. The bigger benefits are strength and a higher critical speed, meaning less vibration at high RPM.
Do I need a driveshaft safety loop?
Many drag racing sanctioning bodies require a driveshaft loop once a car runs past certain elapsed times or uses slicks. Check your class rules. It's a cheap insurance policy for any high-horsepower car.
Can you build a driveshaft for my LS swap?
Yes. Engine and transmission swaps almost always change length and yoke requirements. Give us your transmission, rear end and measurements and we'll build a shaft for the swap.
Do you build chromoly driveshafts?
Yes. We build custom driveshafts in steel, aluminum and chromoly. Chromoly is the pick when you need maximum strength for its weight.
- 1310 vs 1330 vs 1350: Sizes, strength and when to step up a series.
- Driveline & Pinion Angles: Operating angles, pinion angle and how to measure them right.
- Driveshaft Vibration Causes: Diagnose a vibration by when you feel it, then fix the real cause.